Omega Seamaster: A Guide to This Perfect Everyday Watch

An icon among the world’s most admired professional wristwatches, Omega Seamaster is a key pillar of the great Swiss watchmaking company. Seamaster maintains an exceptional lineage of professional timepieces that can be used during diving, sailing, water sports and other extreme activities. Being the most diverse and comprehensive collection of the brand, it also offers several dress watches suitable for everyday wear. Introduced in 1948, Seamaster is the longest-running product line of Omega. Presently it offers various types of wristwatches under four sub-collections: Diver 300, Aqua Terra 150, Planet Ocean 600M and the Heritage series.

History

In 1932, Omega introduced the world’s first commercial diver watch. Named Marine and dressed in a patented double case, it had a water resistance of 70 meters, a remarkable feat during that era. The Seamaster collection was introduced in 1948. This versatile and rugged tool watch was designed to withstand all types of environments ranging from the sea to the skies. Equipped with a rubber O-Ring gasket for ensuring waterproofness, the early generation Omega Seamaster models had a water resistance around 60 meters.

In 1957, Omega launched their Professional line of watches: Seamaster 300, Speedmaster and Railmaster. Designed as a diving watch, the very first Seamaster 300 (reference CK 2913) featured a 38mm diameter steel case, automatic movement, rotatable bezel. It had a water resistance of up to 200 meters. In 1978, Omega’s Seamaster professional 200m watch was selected as the watch of SHOM (The Naval Hydrographic and Oceanographic Service), the French government agency responsible for producing the official maps and charts for divers.

During the 1960s and the 1970s, Omega made several design enhancements in their Seamaster watch collection. In 1964, the Seamaster with a 42mm case and redesigned bezel was introduced. This second-generation was made in two versions: ref.165.024 (without date display) and ref.166.024 (with the date). During this era, the brand also enhanced the Seamaster line with a number of water-proof dress watches like Seamaster DeVille.

With their constant research and exceptional workmanship, Omega succeeded in developing diving timepieces with more waterproofness. Introduced in 1970, the Seamaster 600 PloProf watch had a water resistance of 600 meters. In 1971, Omega launched the Seamaster 1000 dive watch with incredible water resistance up to 1,000 meters.

In the 1990s, the Seamaster collection witnessed a great revival. In 1993, Omega introduced the Seamaster Professional Diver with 300 meters water resistance and quartz movement. A year later, the Seamaster Professional 300M Diver equipped with a chronometer-certified automatic movement watch was launched. 

In 1995, the James Bond movie ‘Golden Eye’ was released. In this blockbuster spy film, Pierce Brosnan chose to wear the Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M Quartz watch. Since this movie, Seamaster has remained a favorite gadget of James Bond 007. In ‘Tomorrow Never Dies’ (1997), ‘The World Is Not Enough’ (1999) and ‘Die Another Day’ (2002), Brosnan wore a Seamaster Professional Diver 300M automatic watch.

In 2005, Omega launched the Professional Planet Ocean collection, which offers diving watches with 600 meters water resistance.

In the James Bond 007 movie ‘Casino Royale’ (2006), Daniel Craig wore an Omega Seamaster Professional diver 300M and a Seamaster Professional Planet Ocean model. He chose to wear a Seamaster Professional Planet Ocean model in ‘Quantum of Solace’ (2008); a Seamaster Professional Planet Ocean and a Seamaster Aqua Terra in ‘Skyfall’ (2012), and the Seamaster 300 “SPECTRE” watch and a Seamaster ‘Aqua Terra’ in ‘Spectre’ (2015). The partnership with the world’s most admired spy film series has provided worldwide recognition for this iconic collection.

In 2018, Omega celebrated the 25th anniversary of the Seamaster Professional Diver 300M watch. To mark this historic milestone, Omega upgraded the Seamaster collection with a larger 42mm case, new wave-pattern dial design and Master-chronometer certified movements.

The Seamaster Collection – Shopping guide

Seamaster is one of the most extensive collections from Omega. It constitutes various diving timepieces as well as a large number of classic dress watches with exceptional water resistance. Important sub-collections from the Seamaster family are Aqua Terra 150M, Diver 300M and Planet Ocean 600M. The collection also offers a ‘Heritage’ series inspired by the historic Seamaster watches.

Based on the chronometric certification, the modern Seamaster watches can be categorized under two distinct groups: ‘Chronometers’ with COSC certification and ‘Master Chronometers’ with both COSC and METAS certifications.

Seamaster Diver 300M

This is the most admired range of watches from the Seamaster family. Rated for 300 meters water resistance and equipped with a helium escape valve and unidirectional rotating bezel, the Omega Seamaster 300m diving watch is ideally suitable for recreational/scuba diving activities. It is available in various case dimensions like 41mm, 41.5mm, 42mm, 43.5mm and 44mm. They come with Steel, Gold, Steel + Gold, Ceramic, Titanium or Platinum cases.

Important models from the Diver 300M series are Co-axial Master Chronometer (42mm and 43.5mm), Co-axial Master Chronometer Chronograph 44mm, Co-axial Master Chronometer GMT Chronograph 44mm, Co-axial Chronometer 41mm and Co-axial Chronometer Chronograph 41.5mm. Among these, Co-axial Master Chronometer models belong to recent generation watches that comply with Omega’s new quality standard introduced in 2015. 

The Diver 300M Co-axial Master Chronometer 42mm watch is equipped with self-winding calibers 9900 (with the date) or 8806 (without date display). Driven by the Omega self-winding movement 8806, the 43.5mm Seamaster Diver 300M Co-axial Master Chronometer model features a ceramic case fitted with rubber or NATO strap. In the 42mm Co-axial Master Chronometer category, the collection also includes various Omega Seamaster 007 ‘James Bond’ limited editions. The Diver 300M series additionally includes a Master Chronometer Chronograph with 44mm case and automatic Calibre 9900.

The watches with Chronometer certification belong to the previous generation of Seamasters equipped with COSC-certified Co-axial movements. These models have plain dials whereas new generation watches (except James Bond limited editions) have wave-motif dials.

The Co-axial Chronometer 41mm Diver 300M is equipped with automatic calibre 2500. The 41.5mm version houses calibre 3330. In the Co-axial Chronometer category, Omega also offers Seamaster Diver 300M chronograph models with or without GMT function. The Seamaster Diver 300M is predominantly a men’s watch collection. However, the brand offers a ladies’ Seamaster wristwatch with a 28mm case and quartz movement. Equipped with a unidirectional bezel or diamond-set bezel, this timepiece is water-resistant to 300 meters.

The retail price range of Seamaster Diver 300M is HKD$ 17,800 to HKD$ 402,000. Belong to the most recent generation, Master Chronometer variants cost higher than Chronometer versions. The stainless steel models for men (with case sizes 41mm and above) are available within the retail price range of HKD$ 33,900 to HKD$ 83,000. The 18-carat gold watches for men retail above HKD$ 179,000. The most expensive Seamaster Diver 300M in the present catalogue is the 42mm “James Bond” numbered edition watch in Platinum with a retail price of HKD$ 402,000.

Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M

This exceptional line typically offers professional-grade diving timepieces with water resistance of 600 meters (60 bar/2000 feet). Available in Steel, Gold, Bi-metal (steel & gold), Ceramic, Titanium and Platinum case versions, all Planet Ocean 600M watches are equipped with unidirectional diving bezel and Helium escape valve. The GMT versions feature bi-directional bezels.

Just like other watch families from Omega, this impressive collection can be categorized into ‘Master Chronometer’ and ‘Chronometer’ categories.

In the ‘Master Chronometer certified’ section, you will find various new generation Planet Ocean 600M models produced since 2016. The models are: Seamaster Planet Ocean 43.5mm Auto, Seamaster Planet Ocean 43.50mm GMT and Seamaster Planet Ocean 45.5mm Chronograph. These modern dive watches are equipped with ‘Master Chronometer’ Co-Axial automatic movements: Cal.8900/8901(date), Cal. 8906 (GMT) and Cal.9900/9901 (Chronograph). Omega also offers a range of 39.5mm Seamaster Planet Ocean Automatic ‘Master Chronometer’ certified watches equipped with caliber 8800/8801.

In the ‘Chronometer certified’ category, Omega offers date, GMT and Chronograph versions. All these watches are equipped with COSC-certified automatic movements: Cal. 8500/8501 (42mm & 45.5mm versions with the date), Cal. 8520/8521 (37.5mm version with the date), Cal. 8605/8615 (43.5mm model with GMT) and Cal. 9300/9301 (45.5mm Chronograph model).

The retail price of the Planet Ocean collection starts at HKD$ 45,000. The ‘Master Chronometer’ versions are costlier than ‘Chronometer’ models. The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M stainless steel watches are available within the price range of HKD$ 45,000 – HKD$  65,500 whereas the 18 carat gold versions retail above HKD$  174,200. Omega also offers Gem-set Planet Ocean 600M watches with a price range starting from HKD$  124,500 to a whopping HKD$  1,506,000.

Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M is a comprehensive selection of elegant dress watches with enhanced durability and exceptional water-resistance of 15 bar (150 metres/500 feet). Equipped with Manual-winding, automatic or quartz movements, Aqua Terra 150M is available in various case sizes ranging from 28mm to 43mm. The collection offers several dial color options and case materials (Steel, Steel + Gold, Gold, Platinum and Titanium). The Aqua Terra 150M range also includes an impressive lineup of gem-set watches.

Notable new generation models in this impressive watch family are: Co-Axial Master Chronometer (41mm, 41.5mm, 38.5mm, 38mm & 34mm) and Co‑Axial Master Chronometer GMT Worldtimer 43 mm. In the ‘Chronometer’ category, the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra series offers GMT 43 mm, GMT Chronograph 43 mm, Annual Calendar (38.5mm and 43 mm), Day Date 41.5 mm and Date (38.5 mm, 34mm and 30mm) models. The Aqua Terra Quartz is available in 38.5mm, 30mm and 28mm versions. The retail price range of the Aqua Terra 150M collection is HKD$  21,200 to HKD$  395,000.

Seamaster Heritage Models

The Heritage series of the Seamaster family traditionally consists of sub-collections inspired by the various iconic watches produced by Omega. The most popular models are Bullhead, PLOPROF 1200M, Seamaster 1948, and Seamaster 300.

The Seamaster Bullhead chronograph faithfully follows the designs of the iconic bullhead watches of the bygone era. Equipped with automatic Co-Axial calibre 3113, this stainless steel wristwatch features bidirectional inner rotating bezel and solid screw-in caseback with the Seamaster Seahorse. This limited edition timepiece retails at HKD$  74,400.

Introduced in 2009, the PLOPROF 1200M is an updated version of the brand’s Seamaster Professional 600. With a water resistance up to 1200 meters, this deep diving watch features screw-in crown, automatic helium escape valve and bezel security pusher. Made of stainless steel or titanium, its massive case houses the automatic Co-Axial calibre 8500. The retail price range is HKD$  72,900 to HKD$   139,600.

Available in Steel and Platinum case versions, Seamaster 1948 is a tribute to the Omega Seamaster models of 1948. These 38mm timepieces are equipped with self-winding Master Chronometer Calibre 8804. The retail price range for the steel model is HKD$  49,600 to HKD$  53,500. The platinum version has a selling price range of HKD$  326,500 to HKD$  331,000.Seamaster 300 is designed after the 1957 Omega dive watch of same name. Equipped with the self-winding Master Co-Axial calibre 8400/8401, these watches can be identified from their large hands and indices with vintage-styled luminescent coating. The watch is available in a 41mm diameter case with a unidirectional, polished ceramic rotating bezel and a transparent caseback. The Seamaster 300 from the 1957 Trilogy collection features a 39mm stainless steel case, bidirectional bezel, solid caseback with the 1957 Seahorse engraving and Master Chronometer automatic movement 8806. All Omega Seamaster 300 models are water resistant up to 300 meters. These timepieces are available in Steel, Gold, Bi-metal (gold + steel), Titanium and Platinum versions. The retail price range is HKD$  50,200 to HKD$  511,900.