Oris 2022: A Closer Look at The New Oris Propilot X Calibre 400

Oris has been manufacturing aviation watches ever since it launched the first pilot watch in 1938. This historic Oris Big Crown Pointer Date represents an important milestone in the history of the Swiss watch industry. The recently launched Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 is a proud purveyor of this rich heritage. It combines the Swiss brand’s time-honored expertise in the field of pilot watches with its in-house capability in producing excellent mechanical movements.

Introduced in 1938, the first pilot watch from Oris featured a large crown, making it easier for pilots to wind and precisely adjust the wristwatch even when wearing thick gloves. It also had a central hand indicating the date, known as Pointer Date. Popularized by the early airborne pioneers, this historically important timepiece was the ancestor of all Oris Big Crown pilot watches.

Oris ProPilot

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Presently, ProPilot is the flagship collection of Oris’ pilot watches. It is comprised of the emblematic Big Crown pilot watch models of the iconic Swiss brand, including some collaborative creations in limited editions. These robust and highly reliable mechanical self-winding wristwatches stand-out with easy to read dial with Arabic numerals, knurled bezel inspired by the blades of a jet engine turbine and a quickly adjustable large crown. 

The Oris Big Crown ProPilot collection is presently offering 41mm and 44mm watches, featuring stainless steel or bronze case. These timepieces are available in “Date”, “Day-Date”, “GMT” and “World Time” versions.

Oris ProPilot X

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This new series is an evolution of the Oris ProPilot watch family. It was introduced in 2019 with the launch of Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115. This timepiece features a 44mm diameter case in titanium and an in-house developed hand-wound mechanical skeleton movement (Caliber 115) capable of delivering a power reserve of up to 240 hours (10 days). In 2022, Oris expanded this modern swiss watches collection by introducing the ProPilot X Calibre 400. 

Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400

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Designed for skies, this new Oris ProPilot X features a titanium case and bracelet.

Titanium is lighter in weight, yet stronger than stainless steel. These distinctive features naturally make this material ideal for producing sturdier and more practical aviation timepieces.

Measuring 39mm in diameter, it is the smallest model in the present Pilot watch collection. The compact design of this Oris watch attracts more acceptability from customers with small wrist sizes.

Its case and case-back are highlighted with satin and sandblasted finishes. Equipped with a titanium screwed-in crown, the new ProPilot X watch provides water-resistance of 100 meters. The sculpted three-links bracelet is also made of titanium, the sculpted three-links bracelet is fitted with a folding clasp featuring the patented ‘LIFT’ system. This innovative mechanism allows the wearer to instantly remove the straps by just lifting a flap. Naturally, this medium-sized aviator watch is exceptional comfortable around the wrists, while steadfastly maintaining its robust nature.

Powering this model is Calibre 400, an in-house self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed by Oris. The ProPilot X Calibre 400 watch spotlights the emblematic knurled bezel. Positioned at 3 o’clock, the large titanium crown protected with crown-guards. On the reverse side, the watch features a knurled, screw-in type case-back with a see-through sapphire crystal that provides a view of the Calibre 400.

Provided with a lightweight yet robust exterior, this new timepiece is available with three dial color choices: Grey, Blue and Salmon. The dial has long hour marker indexes and minute track. It features three centrally positioned hands, generously providing a clear display of the time. Indices, as well as both hour and minute hands, have Super-LumiNova® coating for ensuring excellent visibility even in the dark.

This high-performance automatic watch also displays the date through a small window positioned at 6 o’clock. The dial spotlights inscriptions Propilot X and 5 DAYS just above the date indicator. The text 5 DAYS indicates the power reserve of the Oris calibre 400. Domed on both sides, the glare-proofed anti-reflective sapphire crystal offers unobstructed view of the dial details.

The Oris Propilot X Calibre 400 model with blue face has an elegant, modern appearance. Presently, there is a great demand for wristwatches with blue dials. The salmon dial watch model is livelier in appearance and it is capable of capturing the attention of young customers.

Both the Blue and Salmon versions feature Super-LumiNova® BG W9 luminescent coating on their hands and indexes, offering a bright blue glow in the darkness. The grey dial version boasts an extraordinary appeal due to the harmonious application of neutral shades. Its Indices and hands are treated with Superluminova Black NL BL phosphorescent pigment (black coating and blue glow).

The retail price of the Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 watch is approximately HK$30,000 in Hong Kong. 

About Oris Calibre 400

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Calibre 400 is a new generation manufacturing self-winding movement developed by Oris. It was introduced in 2020 with the new 43.50 mm stainless steel Oris Aquis calibre 400 watch featuring the much-admired Gradient blue dial. Highly antimagnetic and endowed with excellent accuracy of -3/+5 seconds a day (within COSC tolerances), this modern generation automatic movement provides a 120-hour (5 days) power reserve.

This calibre beats at the rate of 28,800 vibrations per second (4 Hz). Equipped with 21 jewels, it also features instantaneous date mechanism with quick corrector, fine timing device and stop-second function. Once fully wound, its twin barrels store enough power reserve to drive watch functions for about five days.

The movement comes with an open-worked oscillating weight featuring a low-friction slide bearing system, making it more energy-efficient. It is also less susceptible to wear and tear, hence needs lesser maintenance. Oris recommends 10-year service intervals for this caliber. Moreover, the brand is offering a ten-year warranty on all Oris watches powered by the Calibre 400.

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In 2021, the brand launched two new Oris Aquis watch models featuring Calibre 400: Oris AquisPro Date Calibre 400 (with 1,000 meters water resistance) and a new 41.50mm Aquis Date model.

This self-winding movement family also includes two evolutions: 401 & 403. The Cal. 401 features a small-second dial at 6 o’clock. The recently released Oris Diver 65 Carl Brashear limited edition watch houses this movement. The Cal.403 is equipped with the emblematic pointer date display and small seconds.

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