Being the quintessential example of a simple luxury wristwatch, Rolex Oyster Perpetual (“OP”) is the most accessible timekeeper in the present product line-up. It is the purest representation of the prominent Swiss brand’s unmatched fine watchmaking expertise, rich heritage and inimitable prestige. This entry-level Rolex watch accurately represents a pure yet perfect amalgamation of the famed Oyster concept and “Perpetual” self-winding movement technology.
The Oyster Perpetual line-up proudly claims a rich legacy that dates back to the 1920s. Hans Wilsdorf, the brand’s founder, introduced this highly acclaimed water-proof technology for timepieces in 1926. His hermetically sealed case design paved the way for a new category of water resistant wristwatches, known as Oyster. In 1931, Rolex launched the innovative self-winding mechanism known as “Perpetual” rotor. It has turned out to be a major milestone in the evolution of automatic wristwatches.
By combining these two key technologies, the company laid the foundations for the Oyster Perpetual watches in the 1930s. This perfect synthesis of two great watchmaking inventions has been effectively incorporated into the brand’s all modern timepieces, except the Cellini series. The “Oyster Perpetual” concept provides not only impressive water-resistivity but also superior chronometric precision.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Collection
Rolex Oyster Perpetual collection belongs to Rolex’s Classic range, which offers the brand’s luxury dress watches. The other families in this range are Cellini, Datejust, Day-Date, Lady Datejust and Pearlmaster.
Among the classic Rolex watches, Oyster Perpetual is the most affordable. In spite of an illustrious history, it remains free from hype. These timepieces stand out with their minimalist yet robust design and fine finishing. Presently, the brand is offering this emblematic timepiece with five case sizes: 28mm, 31mm, 34mm, 36mm and 41mm. The production of 26mm and 39mm Oyster Perpetual models has been discontinued.
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 2020 line-up introduced new movements with the patented Chronergy escapement. Among the current production models, 36mm and 41mm Oyster Perpetual Rolex watches for men are equipped with Calibre 3230, a state of the art in-house self-winding mechanical movement launched in 2020. Similarly, the new ladies 31mm Oyster Perpetual model houses the latest 2232 calibre. Both calibres offer better power reserve than their ancestors.
The emblematic Oyster design includes a solid middle-case, a screw-down case-back and a screw-in winding crown. In the Oyster Perpetual watches, all these parts are made of 904L stainless steel (now known as Oystersteel).
The middle case spotlights satin finishing with polished sides. Endowed with a fine fluting, the case-back is hermetically sealed with a special tool. The screw-down winding crown is provisioned with the Twinlock waterproofness system. Oystersteel is well-known for its rigidness and corrosion resistance. Once polished, it graciously offers an unmatched sheen.
The other noteworthy features are domed bezel, scratch-proof sapphire crystal glass and 100m water resistance. The timepieces from this series are traditionally provisioned with the famous Oyster bracelet with the folding Oysterclasp. It also has the Easylink comfort extension link for adjusting the length for a comfortable fitting.
Oyster Perpetual watches are equipped with the superlative chronometer certified self-winding movements, ensuring excellent timekeeping accuracy and reliability. Driving the centre hour, minute and seconds hands, all of them are tested for a precision of -2/+2 seconds/day. Representing the brand’s absolute proficiency in the in-house manufacturing, these calibres incorporate several Rolex innovations.
Popular Oyster Perpetual Watches
In this section, we invite you to explore five best-selling Oyster Perpetual Rolex references. These are considered as icons within this distinguished timepiece collection.
(1) Rolex Oyster Perpetual Reference 277200
This reference represents the Oyster Perpetual variant with a 31mm diameter case. This Rolex watch for women is equipped with the modern generation self-winding Calibre 2232. Provisioned with a Syloxi hairspring in silicon and Paraflex shock absorbers, the new in-house self-winding movement has a power reserve of 55 hours.
Presently, Rolex 277200 is available in nine dial colors: silver, black, coral red, green, pink, candy pink, yellow, bright blue and turquoise blue. This model features single stick hour-markers.
(2) Rolex Oyster Perpetual Reference 126000
Offering new generation Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 models, this reference efficiently utilizes the manufacture Rolex Calibre 3230. Introduced in 2020, this self-winding mechanical movement incorporates groundbreaking innovations like Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring, Paraflex shock absorbers and the Chronergy escapement. It has an enhanced power reserve up to 70 hours.
As on date, Rolex 126000 comes with eight dial color choices: silver, black, coral red, green, candy pink, yellow, bright blue and turquoise blue. The 36mm Oyster Perpetual model has double stick markers for 3, 6 and 9 o’clock positions. The remaining hour markers are single stick type.
(3) Rolex Oyster Perpetual Reference 124300
The newly introduced Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 model is presently available in seven dial colors: silver, black, coral red, green, yellow, bright blue and turquoise blue. As the name indicated, this self-winding timepiece features a 41mm diameter Oystersteel case.
Launched in 2020, Rolex 124300 houses Calibre 3230, which is the same movement of the aforesaid Oyster Perpetual 36mm watch. It is the replacement of the 39mm Oyster Perpetual variant, which was introduced in 2015. It is the largest model in the modern Oyster Perpetual family. The same dial design has been offered for 36mm variant.
(4) Rolex Oyster Perpetual Reference 177200
The Rolex 177200 is the direct predecessor of the present generation OP 31. This OP watch is equipped with Cal. 2231 where as the new production series (Reference No. 277200) houses Cal. 2232.
The old generation of Rolex Oyster Perpetual 31 models exist in a wide range of dial colours and styles featuring with stick indexes, Arabic numbers or Roman numerals. Before discontinuing its production in 2020, the brand expanded this series by adding eye-catching dial versions like red grape, azure blue and white lacquer.
(5) Rolex Oyster Perpetual Reference 116000
This reference represents the range of OP 36mm models produced before the induction of the current generation in 2020. Introduced in 2008, the Rolex 116000 Oyster Perpetual watch is equipped with Calibre 3130. This automatic movement has a power reserve of 48 hours.
In 2020, it was replaced with new series 126000, endowed with the advanced self-winding Cal. 3230. This model exists in various dial colors and styles.
Summary
The direct descendent of the world’s first water-proof watch launched in 1926, Rolex Oyster Perpetual stands out with its simple designs. It also features a trustworthy self-winding movement and a highly legible dial. It is equally robust and versatile. The Oyster case design with hermetically sealed case-back not only provides exceptional water resistance but also protects the inner mechanisms from shocks, dust and other invasive elements.
Proudly displaying the word “SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED” on its dial, each timepiece from the collection undergoes rigorous quality tests conducted by COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres).
Because of its remarkable versatility to handle various situations, Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch is considered as an ideal accessory for every event in private and social life.
Oyster Perpetual‘s Rolex HK retail price range usually starts from HK$40K. The cost of some highly sought-after OP models fetch above HK$100,000 in the secondary/pre-owned markets.
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