Cartier Tank: The Most Popular Collection of Cartier Watches

Introduction

Popularly known as the jeweller of kings or the king of jewelers, Cartier is a leading player in the global luxury watch industry. Proudly representing a fusion of modernistic designs and classicism, Cartier Tank is an emblematic horological creation from the world-renowned French luxury Maison. 

Among its flagship watch collections, Tank is one of the best-selling series in Cartier. The distinct shape of this timepiece was inspired by the battle tanks of the First World War. Designed by Louis-François Cartier, the charismatic founder of the brand, Tank’s distinguishing characteristics are the two parallel brancards (case sides), a cabochon set crown, and a dial with a chemin de fer chapter ring, large Roman numeral hour markers and sword-shaped blued steel hands.

Presently, this watch series is comprised of sub-collections like Tank Américaine, Tank Asymétrique, Tank Cintrée, Tank Française, Tank Louis Cartier, Tank MC, Tank Must and Tank Solo.

Known for its understated elegance, the Cartier Tank collection offers a comprehensive range of timepieces for men and women. It is comprised of several types of automatic, manual-winding and quartz watches. It offers steel, 18K gold (pink, white or yellow), two-tone and platinum wristwatches. Cartier proposes five size categories in the series: Mini, Small, Medium, Large and Extra Large. Three case shapes are available: rectangular, square and asymmetric. To harmonize the overall design, the case attachments are precisely aligned with the strap. The Tank watch is available with or without diamond setting.

History

Cartier was founded in 1847 in Paris by Louis-François Cartier. One of the most prestigious Jewelry houses in the world, the company began manufacturing wristwatches in the 1910s. In 1917, the Maison created the iconic Tank watch inspired by the shape of WW I military tanks.

In 1921, the Tank cintrée watch was launched. This model stands out with a curved, ergonomic design. Cartier introduced the Tank Louis Cartier and Tank Chinoise watches in 1922. The other notable evolutions of the Cartier Tank watch series are the Tank à guichets, the Tank basculante, the Tank Asymétrique, the Must de Cartier Tank, the Tank Américaine, the Tank Française, the Tank Divan and the Tank Anglaise, the Tank Solo and the Tank MC.

Since its launch, Cartier Tank has been intimately associated with fame and wealth. Its notable patrons prominently include affluent entrepreneurs, royals and film stars. 

Cartier Tank Collections

(1) Tank Louis Cartier

The Tank Louis Cartier watch has been renowned for its simple, yet elegant design. It is the most traditionalist model among the Cartier tank watches. Proudly boasting the emblematic characteristics of the iconic series, this timeless icon is available in precious metals only. Elegantly dressed in a rectangular or square case, it always features a cabochon set crown.

Presently, Cartier Tank Louis timepieces are available with hand-wound mechanical or quartz movements. The retail price range of this series starts around HK $75,000. The most expensive model in the current lineup is the Tank LC Skeleton Sapphire watch. This 18-carat gold diamond-set, extra-large (30 mm x 39.2 mm) model is equipped with the 9616 MC to manufacture mechanical manual-winding movement. Its selling price is approximately HK $770,000. 

(2) Tank Américaine

Introduced in 1989, the Tank Américaine watch features a stretched out rectangular case with a more evident curve than the original Tank model. The current line-up includes medium-sized automatic wristwatches for men and quartz Cartier watch women models in mini or small size. These timekeepers usually come with an 18-carat gold or steel case. 

Medium-size automatic Tank Américaine watches come with case size of 41.60 mm x 22.60 mm. In the quartz category, small models measure 34.8 mm x 19 mm and mini versions feature 27 mm x 15.2 mm dimensions.

Cartier’s Tank Américaine watches are available with armor pattern metal bracelets or alligator leather straps. The current Cartier retail price range of this series in HK is HK $34,000 to HK $414,000. 

(3) Tank Asymétrique

The Tank Asymétrique watch was launched in 1936. This revolutionary creation from the iconic Cartier Tank collection spotlights asymmetrically designed case and dial. It stands out in the family with its innovative case shape, unique lug design and unconventional arrangement of hour-markers. Presently, this Cartier watch Tank model is available in limited editions in precious metals like Gold and Platinum. Its case measures 47.15 mm x 26.10 mm. They usually feature alligator skin straps.

Cartier Tank Asymétrique features a hand-wound mechanical movement. It is available with two types of dials. 

The first option features a minimalistic design with Arabic numeral hour markers (even numbers). Depending upon the case material, the dial color varies. The yellow gold model has a champagne dial, the rose gold version comes with a grey dial and the platinum variant houses a silvered dial. The movement used with these models is the 1917 MC in-house mechanical manual-wound caliber.

The second option is the skeleton dial. Cartier is presently offering open-worked Tank Asymétrique watches in gold and platinum. These skeleton timepieces are driven by the caliber 9623 MC manufacture mechanical movement with manual winding. This model is available with a diamond-set case.

The selling price of the Tank Asymétrique watch starts around HK $257,000. 

(4) Tank Cintrée

The Tank Cintrée was introduced in 1921 as an evolution of the original tank watch. Distinguished by a curved case, this iconic wristwatch celebrated its 100th anniversary in 2021. To mark this milestone, Cartier launched a limited edition Tank Cintrée Skeleton watch. The diamond-set, platinum watch incorporates the manual winding 9917 MC manufacture mechanical movement. Driving the hour and minute hands, the skeletonized and curved calibre follows the distinctive shape of the case. It is provided with a mineral crystal and a sapphire case back. This Tank Cartier watch typically costs about HK $830,000. 

(5) Tank Française

The Tank Française was introduced in 1996. It is the first Tank watch with an integrated chain bracelet. Presently, this timepiece is available in gold, steel and bi-metal (gold and steel) versions. It has a curved case, and its bracelet is designed after the tread of a First World War military tank. This remarkable series offers automatic and quartz watches.

The large-size automatic watch has a 36.5 mm x 28.15 mm case. In the quartz segment, the medium model measures 30 mm x 25 mm whereas small versions come with 25 mm x 20 mm case. The retail price range is HK $27,000 to HK $240,000. 

(6) Tank Must

The Tank Must De Cartier was introduced in the late 1970s as a budget-friendly quartz model. It was designed after the iconic Tank Louis Cartier watch. This collection was a huge success. The brand has recently revived the series by introducing new models in stainless steel. Presently, these quartz-powered rectangular watches are available in small (29.5 mm x 22 mm) and large (33.7 mm x 25.5 m) versions. They have a thickness of 6.6 mm.

The Cartier Tank Must watch is currently available with a silvered dial. It boasts signature features like roman numerals, blued-steel sword-shaped hands and a beaded crown set with a synthetic cabochon-shaped spinel. The timepiece is available with a grained calfskin strap or stainless-steel bracelet. The retail price range of this successful series is about HK $20,000 to HK $50,000. 

(7) Tank Solo

The Cartier Tank Solo shares almost the same design features of the Tank Louis Cartier. It is however less expensive. This watch is available in steel and bi-metal versions. This series is comprised of automatic and quartz watches.

The Cartier Tank Solo automatic model has an extra-large case measuring 31 mm x 40.85 mm. Instead of the characteristic two-hand time-only dial layout, this timepiece incorporates three centre hands (hour, minute and seconds) and displays a date at 6 o’ clock. Highlighting the emblematic two hands display, quartz models are available in small (31 mm x 24.4 mm) and large (34.8 mm x 27.4 mm) versions. Bi-metal versions of the Cartier Tank Solo watch feature 18-carat gold case and stainless-steel case-back.

The selling price range of this series is approximately HK $23,000 to HK $80,000. 

(8) Tank MC

This exclusive series is traditionally comprised of high-end mechanical tank watches equipped with Cartier’s manufacture movements. They are usually expensive in comparison with the other Tank families. It offers automatic and hand-wound timepieces in 18-carat gold or steel. A notable example is the Tank MC automatic large model with small seconds and date functions. It houses the self-winding caliber 1904-PS MC.

This collection also includes a Cartier watch men skeleton model equipped with the hand-wound caliber 9619 MC and a fully paved white gold model with the 1904-AU MC automatic movement. The retail price range of the Tank MC collection starts around HK $65,000. The most expensive watch in the current lineup is the automatic high jewelry baguette diamond-set white gold model, which costs about HK $2,663,800.

Summary

Cartier Tank is one of the most admired watch collections ever made. It enjoys a rich heritage of more than 100 years. Since its launch in 1919, this highlight sought-after wristwatch family has been expanding continuously with new evolutions and versions.

To summarize, let us explore some established features of the Tank Cartier watch. Although the collection offers various case styles, it still preserves the essence of the historic timepiece. All new generation tank watches share most of the signature features of the family: two parallel brancards, the crown with cabochon, Roman numerals and etc. Depending upon the model, the cabochon stone of the crown can be a sapphire, synthetic spinel or diamond.

A large number of Cartier Tank watches come with a silvered dial with Roman numerals and blued-steel sword-shaped hands. Depending upon the model, the dial has a plain or flinqué (grained) surface. The other dial color choices found in this series are champagne, grey and blue. The brand also offers interesting dial options like open-worked, mother-of-pearl and fully paved. Cartier tank watches come with mineral glass or sapphire crystal. Mechanical versions typically feature sapphire crystal case backs.

These timepieces are available with metal bracelets or alligator leather straps. The water resistance rating of Cartier tank series is 3 atm (30 meters).